Tips for Tight Miters

Shim Behind the Miter

If there's a slight gap between the molding and the wall, don't press the trim tight to the wall and nail it; the miter joint might open up. Instead, slip a thin shim between the molding and the wall. Then nail the outside edge of the trim. If the gap and shim are visible, fill the crack with caulk before painting.

Source:

Tips for Tight Miters

Smash Protruding Drywall

Occasionally window and door jambs end up slightly recessed, which causes trouble when it comes time to install trim. Correct minor level differences by either bashing in or cutting out the drywall along the edge of the jamb. But be careful to avoid going beyond what will be covered by the trim. If the level difference is greater than about 3/16 in., nail thin strips of wood, called jamb extensions, to the jamb to bring it flush to the wall surface.

Source:

Tips for Tight Miters

Burnish the Corner

If your baseboard or crown molding has a slight gap in the outside corner miter, you can hide it by rubbing the tip of the miter with the shank of a screwdriver or nail set. The bent fibers will disguise the gap, and the slightly rounded corner will be less likely to get chipped or damaged. The best way to prevent this problem is to cut your outside corner miters about 1 degree sharper than the actual angle so the tips of the miters touch. This will leave a tiny gap at the back of the miter where it's barely noticeable.

Source:

Success

LOSP - Post-treatment Care for Light Organic Solvent Preservatives

LOSP-treated timber should never be used in ground contact. Furthermore, as with any treated timber product used in weather-exposed applications, a post-treatment protective coat should be applied, such as paint or a similar film-forming finish. This is essential for optimum performance of LOSPs. Note that some manufacturers guarantee the performance of their LOSP-treated timber only if such post-treatment applications are made. For best results, the post-treatment application should be re-applied from time to time, as a regular maintenance practice.

LOSP treatment may interact with some surface coatings. For example, residual solvent from the LOSP treatment process may interfere with both adhesion and drying of the surface coating. In addition, water repellent agents in the LOSP may affect the adhesion or spreading of some coatings. LOSP-treated timber suppliers may provide guidelines for painting, but you should always follow the surface coating manufacturer's instructions. The Australian Paint Manufacturers Federation can also be contacted for advice.

It is essential that all exposed surfaces resulting from cutting, notching or drilling of the timber during installation are resealed with some form of supplementary preservative. Suitable 'in can' preservative solutions can be obtained from most timber, paint and hardware suppliers. 


Source:

LOSP - How are Light Organic Solvent Preservatives applied?

LOSPs are impregnated into the timber, generally in its final shape and form, by sophisticated vacuum pressure treatment plants running computer-controlled treatment cycles. The exact preservative penetration and retention requirements are set out in the AS/NZS 1604 Standard series. It is preferable that the integrity of this preservative treatment should not be breached, e.g. by machining, drilling, and cutting on site. If this is unavoidable, it is essential that some form of brush-on treatment be applied to the newly exposed cut surfaces (see also the following section on post-treatment care). 

LOSP - Where are Light Organic Solvent Preservatives used?

Light Organic Solvent Preservatives (LOSPs) are used for high value building components such as external joinery, e.g. windows, and for protecting house framing against termites (H2 level). The commodities treated include windows, doors, external joinery, house frames, cladding, outdoor garden furniture, feature fences, etc. In recent times, a range of engineered timber products including laminated posts and beams are also being treated with LOSPs. A number of timber species are used for these commodities, mainly radiata and slash pine of local origin, but also imported species from north America and south east Asia, i.e. western red cedar, oregon, and meranti.

In Australia, LOSPs were originally designed to provide relatively short-term protection for building timbers and were applied by dipping processes, giving a temporary water repellent protection. These days, LOSPs are impregnated into the timber to provide long-term protection to high value commodities for use out of ground contact. 


Source:

LOSP - What are Light Organic Solvent Preservatives (LOSPs)?

Light Organic Solvent Preservatives (LOSPs) are preservatives that contain insecticides for internal use, and combinations of fungicides and insecticides for external use, and sometimes water repellents. LOSPs may also contain mouldicides. All of these preservative components are incorporated in a solvent carrier such as white spirit.

LOSPs are used to protect timber against insects, including termites, and decay, though they are not intended for use in ground-contact situations. In addition, LOSPs can provide a degree of weather protection when water repellents have been incorporated. LOSPs are preservatives that leave the treated timber dry after treatment, and do not cause it to swell and distort in any way.

LOSPs have traditionally been colourless, and although it is now possible to obtain green and brown-coloured LOSPs, such colour that is imparted to the timber by these coloured variants is short-term. Also, it should be noted that some of the dyes used in coloured LOSPs might migrate through paint films that are later applied to the surface of the LOSP-treated timber.

The colour or general visual appearance of a piece of treated timber is not a reliable guide for identifying the actual preservative used. Users should check the marking (or branding) on the treated timber, or ask the supplier if in doubt. For example, some LOSP is tinted green, but this should not be confused with the green copper chrome arsenic (CCA) used in ground contact applications, for which LOSPs are unsuitable.

LOSPs and other preservatives like CCA are intended to provide adequate protection to a wide range of commodities but they may not necessarily offer directly equivalent performance over the broad range of applications. Most types of preservative-treated timber are subject to the effects of weathering when used in exposed outdoor situations. Any timber product used in such a situation will benefit from the application of surface coatings that provide additional protection against moulds, discolouration, checking and dimensional movement. LOSP-treated timber is generally more prone to these affects than CCA-treated timber, and it should always be given a protective coating after treatment.


Source:

Shade cloth buying guide

Feeling the heat?

Shade cloths, also referred to as shade sails, are not just for turning a baking patio into a cool relaxing oasis. They are also handy for providing shade over the pool, the vegetable patch or chicken coop, kids' play areas, or even to create a simple carport.

But some shade cloths are shadier than others – and not in a good way. Follow our tips to make sure you get the cover you need.

Shade cloth planning

Remember that lesson on sundials in primary school? Yep, the sun moves, and the shade moves with it. So for effective coverage, the cloth needs to create shade that falls in the right place at the right time. It should also be the right size to protect from direct and indirect UV radiation, and be made of the right materials.

Have a look at the area you want covered and think about why you need shade – is it a kids' play area that needs all-day shade, or do you just want awning protection from the searing afternoon sun? Consider the time of day you'll use the space and how that might vary over a year – a cool spot in summer may become an Arctic shadowland in winter!

How to choose a shade sail

There are two types of shade cloths – knitted and woven. For optimum UV protection, The Cancer Council NSW suggests you choose fabric that is dark, closely woven and heavy, as it blocks or absorbs more UV radiation. Shade structures should also have as high a UVR block as possible – at least 94%.

Most shade cloths sold for domestic and commercial use are knitted fabric and available in several grades from light weight to extra heavy.

• Domestic-grade shade cloths are generally sold at hardware stores and offer between 50% and 99% UVR protection.
• Commercial-grade fabrics generally offer superior protection in terms of UVR block and strength, and are generally designed for larger areas.

Shopping around

A 2008 CHOICE investigation found that the shade cloth installation industry is largely unregulated in Australia. This means the installer may have little knowledge about the correct method of design and installation to ensure proper protection.

It's important to keep this in mind when buying a shade sail, because some are susceptible to stretching – either because they haven't been installed correctly with poor tensioning, or the material deteriorates over time, stretching and reducing its UVR protection.
When getting quotes for shade sail installation, check the credentials of the shade installer and quality of the shade sail by asking:

• Does the company include a structural engineer's report for the site and structure?
• What warranty applies?
• Do they provide ongoing services such as safety checks, maintenance and cleaning?
• What are the specifications of the cloth used? What is the durability of the cloth?
• Has it been independently tested to confirm the UV radiation protection level?

It's also a good idea to check with your local council whether you need a permit to put up a shade sail.

Cost

The cost of having a shade cloth installed at your house will vary according to materials, size and complexity of the job. DIY shade sail kits can start as low as $30 and stretch into hundreds of dollars.


Source:

Timber - Knowing the difference

ACQ Clear Treated Pine

ACQ Clear treated pine is a new product which offers the great colour and performance of treated pine decking without defects (knots) or green tinged CCA treatment to discolour it. Produced as a DAR (Dressed all round (meaning smooth on all sides)) decking board with a reeded (small ridges) top surface, ACQ treated pine has a density rating of 550, a toughness rating of L and a durability class of 1. Its colour varies from a Pale Straw to Yellow. As a softwood product, treated pine decking performs exceptionally well and is our highest selling decking product. It is also very economical, and comes in a variety of sizes and widths. It’s clear finish after treatment means that it takes stain exceptionally well and the treatment means that it is hard wearing and durable.

Merbau

Merbau is an imported hardwood, originating from Indonesia. It is also a DAR decking board with a reeded top surface, and is available in 90mm wide boards as well as 120mm wide. Merbau is an exceptionally well performing decking board with a density rating of 850, a toughness rating of M and a durability class of 2. It is a deep red brown colour, and is subject to some initial tannin bleed when first unpacked.

Kapur

Kapur is also an imported hardwood, originating from Indonesia. It is a DAR decking board, with all four corners slightly pencil round. Kapur has a density rating of 750, a toughness rating of M, a durability class of 3 and a colour of WPR, which is usually a light reddish brown colour which is a little pale. Kapur is a great value decking board that performs well and has a great grain and colour.

Ironbark

Ironbark is an Australian Eucalypt hardwood, selectively forested from NSW and QLD. Ironbark produces exceptionally hard wearing decking boards. The boards are a DAR product and have a density rating of 1100, a toughness rating of H, a durability class of 1. They vary in colour with a rating of WRB and usually have the appearance of light grey, red or a dark brown.

Spotted Gum

Spotted Gum is a selectively forested Australian hardwood from NSW and QLD. Spotted Gum decking is produced with a DAR finish. It is also very hard wearing with a density rating of 1100, a toughness rating of H and a durability class of 2. Spotted Gum boards are bron, and can range from a light to dark colour. They have a distinctive wavy pattern in the grain of the timber.


Tallow Wood

Tallow Wood is another variety of selectively forested Australian Eucalypt hardwood from South East Queensland. Tallow wood is also produced as a DAR board and has a density rating of 1000, a toughness rating of M and a durability class of 1. Tallow wood is generally a light coloured yellow brown.

Blackbutt

Blackbutt is another selectively forested Australian Eucalypt hardwood. It is also sourced from NSW and QLD, and is produced as a DAR decking board. Blackbutt has a density rating of 900, a toughness rating of M, a durability class of 2 and is a blonde or pale coloured hardwood.

Jarrah

Jarrah is also a selectively forested Australian Eucalypt hardwood. It is produced as a DAR decking board and is sourced from WA, Victoria and the Northern Territory. Jarrah decking has a density rating of 800, a toughness of L and a durability rating of 2. It is usually a vibrantly coloured red/brown decking board and makes for a very nice looking deck.






River Red

River Reds are yet another variety of Australian hardwood Eucalypt. Selectively logged from WA, NSW and QLD they are produced as a DAR decking board. River Reds have a density rating of 900, a toughness rating of L and are durability class 2. They have a great range of deep to light red and brown shades and provide great contrast and variability in a deck.

Source:

What’s in a Deck

Before we touch on the decking species that are available, it makes sense to briefly cover exactly what is required to build a deck for the uninitiated. Most timber decks are supported by strategically placed posts which are bolted to post shoes or stirrups above the ground. 

This ensures that the posts won’t decay and destabilise the deck. Attached to the top of the posts are bearers, which run parallel to each other along the deck. The bearers are usually the largest timbers in the deck and serve to stabilise and underpin the structure. Joists then run across the bearers and sit on top of them, normally at right angles to the bearers. Finally the decking boards are fixed to the top of the joists and run across the joists and in the same direction as the bearers. 

The calculation of the sizes of bearers and joists is a complicated process involving sophisticated engineering and many variables. For an overview please visit this decking blog post.

This simple decking structure can be amended in many ways to create elaborate decks that are suspended from the side of a home, have multiple levels or unusual shapes.

Softwoods Decks

The substructure of Softwoods decks is usually Treated Pine. We find that H3 Kiln Dried treated pine provides little to no movement, is resistant of rot and insect attack, and is also the most economical option. Our posts sit on hot dipped galvanised steel posts shoes (or stirrups) and we use galvanised bolts to further ensure no rusting will affect your structure. Bearers are bolted to posts and joists are secured to bearers using trip-l-grip or uni-tie brackets and galvanised nails. All of these measures have been developed over the years to ensure that a Softwoods deck is built to last.

Types of Decking

The primary variable aside from size and shape of decks is the type of decking board that you use. Decking comes in many different species, offering variable strength, size and flexibility, as well as colour, grain and density. With these variables come different prices and performance. Softwoods provide a large range of decking options to ensure that we can provide you with what you want in a deck at a price that suits you.
Below is a brief description of the varieties of decking we specialise in, as well as some information about each. Each variety has ratings for Density, Toughness, Durability and Colour taken from a paper by the National Association of Forest Industries. The ratings are explained below:

• Density Rating for seasoned timber is a measure of mass in kilograms per cubic metre. Density rating is a great indicator of the strength of the timber and serves as a good comparison between species. The higher the mass, the more dense the timber is.
  Toughness Rating is a measure of impact resistance or strength of the timber, measured in Newton metres but simplified to Low(up to 15) Medium (15 to 25) and High (25 and over)
• Durability Class consists of four classes based on tests carried out on untreated heartwood. A score of 1 indicates high durability with the expectation of resistance to decay for over 40 years. Class 2 offers high durability with an expectancy of 15 to 40 years decay resistance. Class 3 is moderate durability with 7 to 15 years resistance and Class 4 is low durability with 1 to 7 years expected resistance. Please note also that the timbers tested are untreated and undried, as well as unpainted or stained. Once treated and stained timber can be expected to last for much longer than anticipated here, but these scores show well the variability and qualites of the differing species.
• Colour is coded as below and gives an indication of the unstained natural colour of the timber.
• W- White, Yellow, Pale Straw, Light Brown
• P- Pink to Pink Brown
• R- Light to Dark Red
• B- Brown, Chocolate, Mottled or Streaky

Source:

How to build a Pergola – Step Eleven

Step Eleven – Installing Roofing

Once you have installed the guttering there is only one step left until you have finished your Pergola. That step is the installation of your roofing. When installing your roofing it’s very important to consider the best and safest way for you to work. You will likely be using Laserlite or Suntuf polycarbonate roofing or Colorbond sheets to cover your pergola, and you will need to consider the amount of weight that the sheets can bear if you are required to move onto the roof of your structure.

The first step in installing your roofing is the measurement of your sheets and the cutting of them to length. Measure the distance from the outside edge of the top purlin down to 50mm past the outside edge of the bottom purlin to ensure that water that falls on the roof of your structure will fall into the gutters. Cut the sheets to the exact size required with tin snips, sharp scissors or a fine tooth blade in a circular saw. Be sure to mark accurately on the sheets where you need to cut before you do any cutting.

Locate and pre drill screw holes

You will need to pre drill your roof sheets for accurate and simple installation. The number and variety of holes required is as follows. For the top and bottom purlins, a srew is required on every second crest (of the corrugations) For all of the mid purlins in your structure, a screw in every third crest is required. This is a guide only however and may be contrary to any warranty advice from the manufacturer, so it makes some sense to check before you drill.

Measure the location of your purlins and determine the middle of each purlins position on your sheets. Translate these measurements from the centre of each purlin on to the roof sheets, using chalk or a wax pencil to mark a line for screw positioning.

For polycarbonate sheeting pre drill 10mm holes in sheets where the screws will be. These holes allow for movement in the sheets as temperatures change and will be covered up by the hood of the polycarbonate screws.

Fix roof sheets

Place your roof sheets into position and screw through the pre drilled holes with dome washer polycarbonate screws into the purlins to fix the sheets. Screw sheets to all purlins except the top purlin at the ridge and the ends of each purlin near the end rafters. This will allow you to use the holes in these areas to attach the ridge and barge caps. Once you are done, sweep off any shavings left on the roof.

Prepare and install capping

The last part of building your pergola remains. All you have to do to be finished is install the ridge cap and barge on your structure and then do a spot of touching up.

Ridge cap

To install the ridge cap on your structure, place the ridge cap on to the ridge and screw down through the roof sheeting into the top purlin using the dome washer polycarbonate screws. To make sure you are screwing into the pre drilled holes, follow the same line of screws that you have done on the bottom purlin.

Barge board

The next thing required is to fix the barge board to the ends of your purlins and the end rafter with 50mm bullet head nails every 300mm. You will need to pre drill the holes to prevent splitting of the barge board.

Barge cap

Once you have the barge board in place on both ends of the structure, measure and cut your barge cap to length making sure to get the angles right. Place the barge cap over the barge board and roofing and then screw into the purlins with dome washer screws.

Finishing off

Congratulations! You have finished your Pergola! The only thing that’s left to do is a quick splash of paint over your structure’s brackets and bolts, and/or any marks or scratches that have occurred during the build. If you’d like you can fill in any imperfections in your timber also. Once that’s done, all that’s left is to invite some friends over and wheel out the BBQ!

We hope that these instructions have been helpful to you, and that you get a great deal of satisfaction from your efforts in constructing your pergola. If you have just been reading through to see if you think you can do it yourself and are feeling confident have a look at our online store to get a quote for your own pergola, or shoot us an email at croydon@softwoods.com.au


Alternatively, if you have any questions about any of the instructions we have provided here, please don’t hesitate to get in touch. We’d love to hear from you


Source:

How to build a Pergola – Step Ten

Step Ten – Installing gutters

Now that the frame of your Pergola is complete, it’s time to put on the roofing to protect you from the elements. It is most likely that you will be using either a Colorbond roof or a polycarbonate roof for your structure. This guide should be sufficient for both forms of roofing (with a few minor differences between the two) however if you are installing twin wall polycarbonate you will need to seek out different instructions.

Before we move onto the actual roof sheeting, we must first address the installation of the gutters. Once the gutters are in, we can move onto the roofing, and finally the capping of the structure. When installing all metalgoods make a point to remove all of the protective plastic coating that you see before installation.

The instructions at this point may vary depending on what kind of gutter you are installing for your pergola. You may be using an internal gutter with a downpipe, or you might be running a gutter around the front of your structure to the far side and removing excess water there. Whatever it is that you need be sure to check your plans very carefully at this stage and make sure that you are clear, as well as reading through this whole set of instructions once before doing anything, so that you can determine exactly which part of these instructions you need to follow.

Cut, and install stop ends

Stop ends are essential for every gutter as they stop water from flowing out of the end of the gutter. To prepare your gutter you will need to fix the stop ends (check how many you need) and pop (for your downpipe) First, Trim the gutter to length required with tin snips if necessary. Hold your stop ends in place and drill a hole through the back front and bottom flap of the stop end, as well as the corresponding spot on the gutter so that you have three clear holes for rivets to be fixed. Once you have drilled the stop end and gutter, attach the stop end with a rivet gun, and silicone the stop end from the inside so that the end is watertight. Repeat this process for each stop end required.

Install pop(s)

To install your pop you first need to work out which post will be supporting the downpipe. This will determine where the pop needs to be positioned within your gutter. On the inside of your gutter and in the correct spot, trace a line around the inner circle of the pop and use a chisel to punch holes around this line in order to punch a section of the gutter out.  The pop should now slide neatly into the hole. Drill, rivet, and then silicon the pop onto the gutter.

Install gutter clips

Once your gutter is prepared it’s time to install it. To hold up the gutter you will need gutter clips. Nail your gutter clips to the top of the beam with 30mm flat head connector nails. Gutter clips should be placed at a maximum of 900mm centres. To create a fall on your gutter, Use a string line, temporarily nailing a nail at both ends of the beam where the gutter will be. Use a level to make sure there is a fall towards the end where the downpipe will be and connect your clips so that they create this fall. The fall should be 1:500 or 1cm for every 5 metres.

Install gutter

Once the clips are in place, installing the gutter is very easy. Simply slip the gutter on to the gutter clips and click it firmly into place. Drive a nail every 900mm through the top back edge of the gutter into the beam using a 30mm flat head connector nail. Make sure that you pull the gutter down to the nail/string line level to ensure that the fall is correct.

Mitre Gutter if needed

If you have an internal gutter on you structure as detailed below, you will more than likely need to have your standard gutter travel along the bottom chord to collect water from the internal gutter and take it away from your home’s guttering so as not to overload it. To mitre your gutter follow these simple steps.

With the gutter upside down mark where the corner will occur (point A) on the back of the gutter.  Using a square, draw a line on the outside of the back of the gutter from point A to point A1 as shown.

On the back of the gutter place a further two marks, each equal to the width of the gutter (at points B and C) to extend beyond the fascia corner.  The central mark B should be extended completely around the outside of the gutter using a square and pencil.

On the base of gutter, draw a line to connect the continuous line from B1 to both A and C.  Mark a line 10mm away from, but parallel to A-B1, and extend this across the back of the gutter.  This will produce a “lap” when the mitre is formed.  This parallel line should also extend up the back of the gutter to A1.

Using snips, cut along the line on one side an one the other side, cut on the parallel line which is 10mm in from the original line drawn connecting A-B1.  You will cut out the complete V marked into the gutter.  In addition, remove excess material at A and B1 to allow the outside of the gutter to fold easily, and the tags to overlap.

Cut a 45 degree notch into the bead of the gutter at the top directly in line with the point of the V.

Fold the gutter around until the back sections touch each other.  Fold tag inside the back gutter, rivet and silicone.

Prepare and install internal gutter

The internal gutter is located on the house side of your structure.  This gutter system is very different to the external gutter and is a great way to keep the rain water falling on your pergola separate from the water falling onto your home. This avoids the problem of potentially overloading your house gutter and causing internal leakages in your home.

Measuring your internal gutter

Your internal gutter will need to project 50mm past the end of the bottom chord so that the water can drop into the end gutter. The end gutter runs along the front of the bottom chord of 1 end of the structure.


Make an internal gutter stop end

If you’ve ordered it from Softwoods, your internal gutter will be approximately 200mm longer than you require. This is so you can cut and fold the gutter to make a stop end.  The stop end can be made by cutting 100mm into the four points shown in the diagram below and then folding them inwards at 90 degrees. Once you have folded the ends, trim across the top of them to make a neat stop end.  Drill and rivet the folded ends to hold them together and then apply silicone from the inside to make sure the gutter is water tight.

Install internal gutter

The internal gutter sits on the rafters in between the beam and the bottom purlin. It should slip into this space as you will have left a 120mm gap between the beam and the bottom purlin. When installing, be sure to remember that the internal gutter over hangs 50mm into the end gutter along the bottom chord. Secure the gutter with 30mm connector nails every 900mm and cover with silicone if needed.

Once your gutters are correctly installed, you can move on to the final step in the construction of your pergola, installing the roofing.


Source:

How to build a Pergola – Step Nine

Step Nine-Installing Gable Ends and Purlins
Install vertical struts

Now that you have installed all of the standard gable frames and the ridge you can move on to installing the gable ends. Once this is complete you have only purlins, guttering and roofing to go before your Pergola is complete!

The first step in installing your gable ends is the fastening of the vertical struts. Your vertical strut is positioned underneath the ridge (fitting into the notched section of the ridge) and it runs directly downwards to sit atop the bottom chord. Measure the distance between these two points and cut the vertical strut to length to ensure a neat fit between the bottom chord and the ridge. Fix the strut at the top first, by drilling and screwing into the notch in the ridge with a 100mm bugle screw. Then move on and fix the strut to the bottom chord with a 75mm nail in each face. Pre drill the strut to make it easier and avoid splitting.

Install end rafters

Once the vertical strut is installed it’s time to fix the end rafters. To start, take one of the gable end rafters and put it in place.  Line the top end up with the top of the ridge and the bottom end with the start of the notch in the bottom chord (the rafter should fit snugly and the angle correspond exactly with the notch) Fix the rafter to the ridge with 2 x 100m bugle screws from a 45 degree angle into the top of the end rafter and through to fasten to the ridge.

Once the rafter is fixed to the ridge, temporarily fix the end of the rafter to the bottom chord with one 75mm bullet head nail into the bottom chord.

Repeat this process for all three remaining gable end rafters. Once all are in position and your pergola is all square and level you can fix the base of all of the gable end rafters to the bottom chords with 3 x 100mm bugle screws in each rafter.

Install starburst struts

The last part required for completion of the gable ends is the starburst struts.  These struts are placed at the base of the vertical strut (in the middle of the bottom chord) and meet the inside edge of the gable end rafter about halfway up (on both sides, there are two per gable end) As they have been pre cut to fit your pergola, all that is required is that you fix the struts to both the bottom chord and the end rafters with 75 mm bullet head nails. Be sure to pre drill the holes in your struts to avoid splitting the timber.

Install purlins
You have now almost finished the frame of your pergola. All that’s left to do now is install the purlins.

If your roofing is polycarbonate it will save you a lot of time and fiddling around later if you fix purlin tape to the top face of each of the purlins prior to installing them. Do this first.

When installing purlins you will need to line the purlins up with the marks that you have previously placed on the rafters and also line up the rafters with the marks on the purlins. If they don’t line up try to pull the purlins as straight or as close to lining up as is possible.

Once you have a purlin in position, fix it to the rafters with a 100mm bugle screw (One per rafter) On the house side the bottom purlin needs to be fixed with a 120mm gap up the run of the rafter to allow for the internal gutter which you will install later (see the diagram below for guidance) The far side bottom purlin goes right up against the beam and will slot snugly into the notch in the bottom chord.  The top purlins on both sides go right up against the edge of the ridge.

Once all purlins are installed the frame of your structure is complete. All that is now left for you to do is add the roofing and gutters.



Source:

How to build a Pergola – Step Eight

Step Eight- Installing the Rafters and Ridge

Once the frame and the posts are installed, your pergola will look like it is beginning to come together. It’s now time to receive the payoff from your earlier work assembling gable frames. Erecting the gable frames is a quick and simple step and will leave you with what looks like an almost finished gable pergola. Putting the frames up is probably the easiest and the most fun part of your project.

The frames are installed with a minimum of two people per frame(Illustrations here only have one person, but we recommend two) To put them in place, stand a ladder at each beam below the corresponding joist hangers which you have already installed. Lift one end of the gable frame into one of the joist hangers so it is pushed in as far as possible.

With one person holding the end that’s in the joist hanger in place, lift the other end up to the opposite joist hanger and slip it into place also. Ensure you keep the first end of the gable frame securely positioned in the joist hanger while you do this as you could either break your gable frame or injure yourself if the frame falls. Once both rafters are in place push both down firmly to ensure they are positioned completely in the joist hangers and against the beams.

Once the gable frame is up and firmly in place, secure each side by driving a flat connector head nail into each hole of the joist hanger.

Repeat this process for all of the gable frames in your structure. Be careful to make sure that you position all of your frames with the collar ties on the same side.
Installing the ridge

Now that all of the gable frames are up and securely fastened you can move on to installing the ridge. The first step in installing your ridge is to gently slide it into the gap above your collar ties and below your rafters. The ridge should sit on top of the collar ties and run the length of your pergola.

With a ladder at each end alongside the bottom chords, 2 people should be able to lift and push the ridge beam into position in the gap at the top of both sets of rafters. Make sure that when you do this the notch in the ridge is on the under side.

Once in position, the top of the ridge beam should line up with the top of both sets of rafters. The rafters will support the ridge but you should be careful not to push it too far up as it can be quite difficult to pull down. Once the ridge is in place you can use your spirit level to make sure the end of the ridge is lined up with the outside face of the bottom chord.

If the centre of the rafters do not line up with the marks on top of the ridge you will need to tap them into place. Do this using a block to protect the timber of the rafters from damage by the hammer.

Once the rafters are in place fix them to the ridge with 3x75mm nails, 1 in from the top of the rafter and 1 skew nailed in either side. As you fix each gable frame to the ridge you can also fix the 600mm rafter strap over the top of the rafters and ridge. To do this, use 5 connector nails in the holes on the strap on each side of the ridge.

Now that you have completed and fastened your gable frames and your ridge, you can move onto the next step, which is the installing gable ends and purlins.


Source:

How to build a Pergola – Step Seven

Step Seven-Installing Posts

The frame of your Softwoods pergola is almost complete and now it’s time to install posts to make the structure stand up. This step is once again very important to get right as once the posts are set it’s extremely difficult to fix any mistakes you have made to this point. Once you have the posts installed you will really be able to see some progress in your pergola and all of the preparing and marking out that you did earlier will start to pay off for you.

Marking the beam

From your plans you can work out where the posts are to be located. Measure and mark the centres of the post locations on the beam with a pencil line indicating where the centre of the post will be.

Measure and cut post to length

To determine the exact length the post needs to be, a few measurements are required. Firstly measure from the top of the beam at the position of each post, to the point on the ground where the posts will be fastened.

As the posts do not go to the very top of the beam, you will need to subtract from the measurement that you have a Post Set Down (PSD) amount, which is the depth of your beam minus the depth of the notch out on the post.

Finally, the amount the post will be above the ground is also required to be subtracted. This may vary depending on the style of post shoe you have or whether you plan to pave in the future. Use the diagram below to help you.

Just to be clear, the exact length of the post is the total height (from the top of the beam to the floor) minus the Post Set Down minus the ground clearance.

Once you are certain that you have this measurement correct carefully cut the post to this length with your power tools. After you have cut the post be sure to spray the cut ends with a timber preservative.

Fit the post shoe

Now that the posts have been cut to the correct length the post shoes need to be fitted for each post. Follow the appropriate instructions from the previous diagram to suit the post shoe type you have. Please pay particular attention to ensure that the base of the post is the distance you require above the seat of the post shoe.

Determine location of post hole and dig hole

Once you have all of your posts fitted with shoes you can move on to digging the holes to fit your posts and then concreting in the post shoes. Holes are located directly under the posts so that the posts can be easily plumbed.

A simple ‘plumb bob’ can be made by attaching a weight to the end of a piece of string. Attach the other end of the string to the beam at the position you have marked for the centre of each post. Let the weight hang just above ground level (you may need to adjust the length of string to achieve this) and (barring any howling winds!) it will be located directly above the centre of where you will need to dig the footing hole.

You will find the required footing size for your posts on your plans. Dig a hole to these dimensions at every point that a post is required. It is important that you make sure that your footings are the correct size as they are essential in anchoring your pergola in extreme weather conditions.

Fit the post and pour concrete

Now that you have your holes in place, you can fit the posts to the beam. The posts are to be fitted to the beam while the structure is still on props so that the beams don’t fall with the posts into the holes. Once the posts are fitted, the shoes should sit above the bottom of the holes that you have dug for them. This way you can fill the holes around the shoes and they can set in exactly the right place.

You should have already worked out where the centre of the posts are supposed to be on your beams, and marked this point. From this point, measure outward half of the width of the post in both directions from this mark. Eg an 88mm wide post measure and mark 44mm each side of the centre. This will locate where the edges of each post will be fixed.

Lightly project these marks down the face of the beam to provide a guide for lining the post up. To position the post place the post shoe in the hole first and lift the post up so that the beam rests nicely in the pre cut notch.

When the post aligns with the markings each side, clamp post and beam together. Final, small adjustments can be made by loosening and tightening your clamps.

Make sure that the post is level and when you’re satisfied that it is, drill through the post and the beam, using you spirit level to make sure that the post alignment is correct. Bolt the post to the beam using 2 or 3 M10 bolts. Make sure that you have the bolt heads on the outside of the beam.

Once you have fastened each post, mix your concrete according to the manufacturers instructions and pour it into the footing holes. Before you pour any concrete, do a last check to see that your beams and bottom chords are level as well as your posts.

Pouring the concrete, unless done very carefully may cause the post to be moved out of level – quickly check each post after pouring and return it to level if this occurs. Repeat this for all of the posts and also check the levels of previous posts as you go.

Once all of the concrete is poured, and all holes are filled, you should leave the structure propped until the concrete has set. It is best to leave it over night as working on the structure may result in your pergola being moved out of square as the concrete cures. Once the concrete has completely set, you can remove the props as it will now stand alone.

Now that you have completed this step, you can move onto the next phase, Installing the Rafters and Ridge.


Source: