What is a Gutter

A Gutter is a narrow channel, or trough designed to collect and transfer rainwater to a suitable drain. 

Gutters collect and diverts rainwater to protect a building's fabric and foundation by channeling water away from a building's base. It also helps to reduce erosion, prevents leaks in subfloor spaces, protects painted surfaces by reducing exposure to water, and provides a means to collect rainwater for later use. 

Typically, it is a discrete trough of metal, or other material that is suspended beyond the roof edge and below the projected slope of the roof.

Rain gutters can be constructed from a variety of materials, including zinc, galvanised steel, painted steel, painted aluminium, plastic, and concrete.

Gutters must be installed with a "fall" so that water flows towards the down-pipe or drain connection. Gutters with inadequate fall will allow water to pond shortening the life of the gutter and creating a condition conducive to timber pest activity.

Different styles of gutter, known as profiles, are produced. A box gutter is a deep gutter which is concealed within the structure of the roof. Cold forming technology exists to allow continuous gutters to be created, on site, in long individual lengths suitable to roof edge conditions, thereby reducing joints along the length of the gutter. These mostly joint free gutters are referred to as "seamless", and available in various shapes, sizes, and finishes
Clogged gutters can cause water leakage into the house as the water backs up as well as encourage mosquitoes to breed.

Guttering should be installed by a licensed roof plumber. Having the correct roof plumbing will ensure that water will flow off the roof correctly in even the heaviest of rainfall, or if there is a water tank, that water catchment is maximised. The roof plumber will take the size, pitch and material of the roof into account when designing the appropriate water catchment or stormwater drainage system and also when selecting the guttering material as certain materials may be incompatible with each other and the roof covering.

According to BCA Vol 1 Part 3.5.2

"The roof drainage system including gutters and downpipes should be connected to a compliant stormwater drainage system and should be designed so that any overflow during heavy rain periods is prevented from flowing back into the building

Gutters, downpipes and flashings must:

• Be manufactured in accordance with AS/NZS 2179.1 for metal
• Be manufactured in accordance with AS 1273 for UPVC components and
• Be compatible with all roofing materials in accordance with BCA Vol 1 3.5.1.3
• Not contain any lead if used as part of a water catchment system.

Mandatory guttering size will vary depending upon the average rainfall intensity and roof catchment area.

Gutters must be installed with a fall of not less than 1:500 for eaves gutters, unless fixed to metal fascias and 1:100 for box gutters.

Eaves gutters must be supported by brackets securely fixed at stop ends and at no more than 1.2m centres.

Valley gutters on a roof with a pitch more than 12.5 degrees must have width of not less than 400mm and be wide enough to allow roof covering to overhang not less than 150mm each side of the gutter or if the roof has a pitch more than 12.5 degrees be designed as a box gutter.

Where high-fronted gutters are installed, provision, provision must be made to avoid any overflow back into the roof by installing slotted gutters or the like.

Downpipes must not serve more than 12m of gutter length for each downpipe and be located as close to possible to valley gutters and if more, provision for overflow must be made to the gutter Downpipes must be selected in accordance with the appropriate eaves gutter section.

Stormwater drainage systems are not designed to remove all of the water during exceptionally heavy rain. Accordingly, it is necessary to design and install the system so that when overflowing occurs any water is directed away in a manner which ensures that it does not pond against or enter the building. This may be achieved by using slotted gutters, oversized gutters and downpipes, locating the gutter so that it is below the top edge of the fascia or the installation of rainwater heads with overflow slots".


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How to install cornice

Plaster Cornice

It is important to understand when cutting plaster cornice about the projection and depth of the cornice.

1. Projection is the distance between the wall and the outside edge of the cornice on the ceiling wall.
2. Depth is the distance between the ceiling and underside edge of the cornice on the wall.







Measuring, Cutting and Fixing Cornice

1. On the ceiling, draw a chalk line a distance from the wall equal to the top measurement of the cornice. This is the projection.

2. On the wall, mark a chalk line equal to the bottom measurement of the cornice. This is the depth. 

3. Measure the lengths of the chalk line around the room to enable the correct lengths needed for the job. 

4. Along the chalk line marked on the wall, fix a temporary nail at approximately one metre intervals,to enable the cornice to sit on, whilst the adhesive sets. These nails will be removed once the cornice has properly adhered to the ceiling and wall surfaces. 

5. Cut the corner angles and if necessary place the cornice in a large mitre box and cut. When cutting cornice always refer to the projection and depth. Cornice to be cut face up with the projection equaling a 45 degree angle. The cornice should always be cut at their projection and depth measurements. 

6. Once the cornice has been cut to the desired lengths and mitre cut, you are now ready to fix. 

7. Cornice adhesive can now be applied to the top and bottom edges of the cornice with a 10mm bleed of adhesive along the full length. 

8. Place the cornice on top of the nails and forcefully press the top to the ceiling so as to maintain pressure along the edge. 

9. See that the next length is placed up to the first and carefully push into place using the adhesive with care to form the joint. 

10. When the adhesive starts to grip, proceed to scrape off any excess with a broad knife and brush or sponge off to a clean finish. 

Remarks

Paint, wall paper and other textures should be removed with a stripper or scraper. To apply moulds to materials of uneven surfaces, soften the moulds with dampening to improve their pliability. On very difficult surfaces, hold in place by screwing to the wall.

Cutting Guide

Large Box - Place your cornice against the two back guides (4), position cornice with the base of the box as the ceiling and the back guides as the wall. Hold cornice in this position using wedges placed in the appropriate slots (2). Place the saw blade against the faces of the 45 degree angle guides (1), start to cut carefully and the angle is automatic with the guide. 

1. Cutting guides V-shaped blocks with a cutting angle of 45 degree giving the cutting mitre. 

2. Movable wedges. They are designed to hold the cornice while cutting. They slide into the appropriate slot to the dimension of the cornice. One can return to these wedges for further cuts on other lengths. 

3. Slot positions. The intervals are calculated for different cornice sizes. 

4. Back guides. Either side preference blocks angled at 45 degrees as a guide across the base to cut the mitre. 

5. Base bottom plate. Thickness 25mm. 


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How To Tape In A Butt joint Drywall the Aussie Way

It's easy when you know how...

Are you game to try this?

Gyprock Jointing Tapes

Gyprock jointing tapes are used to provide strength and rigidity in the first coat of a three coat plasterboard jointing process.

The tape is bedded in a base coat or multi-purpose compound before the second coat and topping coat is applied and sanded ready for painting.

Gyprock tapes are also used in conjunction with a patching compound to repair dents, cracks and holes in plasterboard walls, ceilings and cornice.

Gyprock Jointing Tape Range

Gyprock Paper Tape

Gyprock Paper Tape is a professional taping product that provides high tensile strength for stronger joints.

It has a rough texture for better adhesion and spark perforations for a smoother finish.

Paper Tape is creased along the centre line for better corners and performance in automatic taping tools.

Available in 75m and 150m rolls.

Gyprock Easy Tape

Easy Tape is a self-adhesive, fibreglass mesh jointing tape designed for plasterboard repairs and minor wall jointing projects.

Easy Tape is used with Gyprock Rapid Patch or Base Coat compounds for repairing cracks and holes in plasterboard walls, ceilings and cornice.

Easy Tape can also be used for taping minor sections of wall joints but should never be used for ceilings.

Easy Tape is not suitable for use in fire-rated systems.

Available in 20m and 90m rolls.

Gyprock Rapid Patch

Gyprock Rapid Patch is a fast setting dry powder based compound used for repairing holes, nicks and cracks in plasterboard, fibre cement, timber and masonry. It can also be used as an all-purpose compound for setting plasterboard joints. Once mixed with water, Rapid Patch has a working life of around 20 minutes.
It is a low VOC dry powder compound manufactured by Gyprock in Australia to stringent product specifications.

Product Options

Gyprock Rapid Patch is available in the Gyprock DIY range in a 2kg bag.
If you are looking for an all-in-one solution for repairing dents, cracks or holes in plasterboard, try the Gyprock Rapid Repair Kit which provides a small bag of Rapid patch as well as the tools and accessories you need in one pack.

Application

Mixing

The ideal mix ratio is 1 cup (260grams) of Gyprock Rapid Patch to 150mls of clean water . Mix well to a creamy consistency and use immediately. The working life of Gyprock Rapid Patch is around 20 minutes. Discard mix after set commences.

Small Cracks and Defects

• Fill and allow to set (approx. 40 min) before sanding.
• Use a thicker mix for deep fillings.

For Holes up to 50mm

• Fill the hole with Rapid Patch using a 100mm broadknife and allow to dry.
• Apply a strip of Gyprock Easy Tape to cover the hole.
• Apply 2 coats of Rapid Patch over the tape, allowing them to dry between coats (approx. 20 minutes).
• Lightly sand ready for painting.

How To Repair Water Damaged Gyprock

According to insurance company records, water damage is the most common form of plaster damage. This article is a step-by-step guide to repairing water damaged ceiling plaster. Water can enter into a ceiling cavity through blocked gutters, loose roof tiles and cracks in roofing materials. You will be able to see the effects of the moisture, as the plaster will start to bubble, there may be discolouration, paint may start to flake off, and mould may start to develop on the gyprock. Water damaged plaster needs to be repaired as the moisture weakens the structural integrity of the gypsum, and it can suddenly come crashing down. Repairing the plaster is not a major job, and can be attempted by anyone with simple tools and basic do-it-yourself experience. Gyprocking skills are similar to painting skills, so if you have performed painting throughout your home, you will find that you have enough skills to successfully complete the job.

The initial and most important step is to ensure that you have prevented further moisture leakage to the area. If water can still gain access to the gyprock then there is no point repairing the site, only for it to get damaged again when the next rain storm hits your suburb. Therefore before you attempt the following steps, locate the entry point of the moisture, and prevent moisture entry.

Use a broad faced metal scraper to scrape off any flaking paint and loose material. Scrape in all four directions to ensure that there is no harsh cracks in the paint. If necessary use any paint chips for colour matching to the original paint. You can easily take the paint chips into a hardware store and they will be able to replicate the original colour. Apply a coat of primer to the stained area. Once the primer is touch dry, normally only after an hour or following manufacturer guidelines, use the metal scraper again to clean off any debris. Rub your hand across the gyprock to make sure that the surface is smooth to touch.

Apply a coat of joint compound across the area. Use the metal scraper to smooth it out across the affected area. When the joint compound is dry, sand the area with a piece of sandpaper. Use 120 grit sandpaper for the best finish. Sand a wider area than where you applied the joint compound. This will ensure that there are no surrounding marks once the job is completed. Use a moist rag to wipe off any sanding dust once the sanding is completed.

Repeat the joint compound application, sanding and dusting as outlined in the previous paragraph. This second coat will ensure that the repair job is durable, and there is no cracking with extreme weather. Following these steps, paint the entire area with a primer and sealer. When the primer is dry, then paint over the area with the original finishing paint.

This method will provide a durable a professional finish. If performed correctly you will not be able to notice the area where the water damage on the gyprock previously was. The main skill needed for this gyprocking project is a smooth hand. When individuals first try scraping the joint compound onto the wall, it can be hard to get a smooth and even finish. If after attempting this step you are not having success. Then call a professional gyprocker or plasterer to complete the job before you go onto complete the job.

For a plaster water damage repair job that is both durable a looks great, then use a professional gyprock repair company. If a company specialises in gyprocking, then you know that you can trust them. Remember that experience in the trade counts for a lot more than fancy marketing.


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What Is Gyprocking?

Thinking of furnishing your interior walls? Why not consider gyprocking? What is it, you might ask, in this article we will explain to you what is gyprocking and what advantages and disadvantages it has compared to traditional techniques.

Gyprocks are made of gypsum plaster, which consists of a compound called calcium sulfate dihydrate. The gypsum plaster is pressed between two very thick sheets of fibreglass and then kiln dried. Sometimes the fibreglass is replaced with a thick piece of paper, but this is not recommended as mold growth may result.

Gyprock is also known as drywall, and in some places may also be known as plasterboard or a gypsum board. Using gyprock has a material for interior walls and ceiling are becoming more popular these days as it requires less labor and drying time than traditional methods such as plaster-based interior finish techniques.

Gyprocking offers a glossily smooth and flexible base for your environment. It can be used for the ceiling and interior walls. different gyprocking compositions can be used to design different environments. For example, if an acoustically sealed environment is needed, there are special types of gyprocks which could help you to achieve this aim. It is also a fire resistant material, this is because the gypsum contains water compounds, and the water will be set free and evaporate when a fire is present, prevent adjacent rooms from getting dangerously hot and buying time for people to escape.

But before you decide on using gyprocking for your office interior walls, there are several things you need to consider. First, is gyprocking the right material for you? If you are considering a more transparent and open environment, then gyprocking, which is obviously not transparent, is not right for you. You might want to opt for glass partitions and glass walls instead.

Although gyprocking is a relatively cheap option, there are several disadvantages that might put you off. First, it is prone to damages by exposure to water. While this could be offset by the use of covalent waterproofing and thus effectively insulating it from possible water damages. If unfortunately you were not offered that option or your waterproof layer is punctured, water may cause the wall to swell and disintegrate, in which you will immediately require to do a replacement to avoid possible structural damages.

Gyprocking is a simple job, but it requires a detail oriented and careful approach to be done right. It is better done through an experienced gyprocker in your area.


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Cornices-Tips On External/ Internal Miters Part 1

How do you go with cornice's......

Here's how.....easy when you know how

How to install a cavity unit

Have you ever tried to install a cavity unit?
We can do the hard work for you.

: Fittings supplied

• Head Track
• Timber Pelmet cover trims
• Fitting Pack
• Cavity Pocket
• Closing Jamb (VIC, SA, TAS, WA only)

2. Measure your opening

Measure your stud opening (insert image #1) allow 5mm minimum in both height and width. This will allow for the unit to be packed square during installation. Use these measurements to purchase your new Hume cavity.
Height = Door Height + 70mm (QLD, VIC, SA, TAS, WA) Height = Door Height + 80mm (NSW, ACT) Width = 2 x Door Width + 10mm – Flush Pull (Door protrudes 50mm) Width = 2 x Door Width + 60mm – Flush Jamb (Door is flush with split jamb)

3. Remove transport plates

Remove both transport plates from the top of the cavity. Fit and screw steel head/track to the top of the cavity unit.

4. Fit closing jamb to head/track

Fit closing jamb to head/track. (Not supplied QLD, NSW, WA, ACT)

5. Place cavity unit in opening

Stand assembled cavity unit into your opening, ensure unit is level, pack behind then fix through back post of the cavity unit into the house frame. Make sure the split jambs are in line with the house frame and fix the unit to the floor. (pack under cavity for additional clearance under the door - only if required)

6. Fix head track to frame

Ensure split jambs and head/track are plumb and level, then fix the head to the house frame.

7. Make sure closing jamb is plumb

Plumb closing jamb, pack and fix through to the house frame.

8. Cavity fittings pack includes

• 2 x 4 Wheel Roller Assemblies
• L/H & R/H Door Guides
• 2 x Quick Release Base Plates
• Assorted Screws
• Adjusting Spanner
• Rubber Bumper Stopper (QLD only)

9. Fit 4 wheel roller cariages into head track

Place both 4 wheel roller carriages into the track and ensure they both operate well.

10. Door Preparation

Check that the door is straight and free of any imperfections. Seal your door top & bottom with two coats of undercoat and 2 coats of paint. Refer to manufacturer's warranty.

11. Attach the base plates

Attach the base plates on the top edge of the door, 80mm from each end. Ensure the nylon lock tabs are both on the same side of the door.

12. Fit clad to opening

Clad your opening (Not included) - Important - At this stage make sure the temporary spacer block and plate (located in between the split jambs, approximately half way up from the bottom) remain in place during cladding and tiling to prevent distortion of the cavity pocket. Remove after cladding and prior to the door installation.

13. Fit the architraves. (Not included)

14. Slide the carriage pin into the base plate

Check the opening is free from obstructions, slide the door into the cavity, lift door and slide the carriage pin into the base plate. Then lock with the tab and repeat this process for the second wheel carriage.

15. Fit the cavity door guides

Fasten the door guides at the bottom of the split jamb. Ensure the slide adjustment part of the guide is on the outside of the opening. Check the door slides evenly and smoothly.

16. Adjust the height of the wheel carriage

Using the adjusting spanner, adjust the height of the wheel carriage and plumb against closing jamb.

17. Cut timber cover trims

Cut the timber cover trims to the desired length, fix with screws provided.

18. Fit screw covers

Fit all the screw covers to the timber pelmet cover trims.

Final check

Check your door operates correctly and revisit any of the steps if required.

Understanding the Importance of Door Closers

Door Closers

Most people never notice a door closer unless it gives them a problem, such as leaking fluid on the carpet, the door slamming, or it just not working anymore.

Door closers are not as glamorous as locks. However, they are at the top of the list of builder's manual hardware products involved in product injury cases, and it's no wonder. Door Closers are dynamic. They move objects (doors) weighing 75-200 pounds directly into the path of human beings. 

When improperly manufactured, selected, installed, adjusted or maintained, they can generate impact forces sufficient to injure people or cause them to lose their balance and fall. Temperature changes, wind, gusts, stack pressure, and people traffic, all increase the hazard. A door swinging out of control can be especially injurious to the very young and the very old, who make up the majority of plaintiffs. Yet, when properly manufactured, installed, adjusted and maintained, door closers are safety devices that protect people and reduce the potential for injury.

A door closer is designed to close the door, not compensate for door problems, such as worn or bent hinges, warped doors, thresholds which may cause doors to bind, bend, or sticking lock latches, or exit device problems. Many maintenance people try to compensate for the above problems by adjusting the closer's closing speed causing the door to slam. 
While this may shut the door, it does nothing to correct the problem. It will eventually be self-destructing.

Using the door closer as a door stop may damage the closer and/or the door structure. A floor stop, wall stop, or overhead holder/stop should be used on every door. Never put a broom handle, etc... on the hinge side to wedge the door open because it bends the hinges.

Door closers come in sizes according to the size of the door, location, interior or exterior, traffic (number of people using the door), draft conditions, or air pressure in the building. 
There are also special closers to meet ADA requirements.

Remember, door closers are necessary to insure fire doors are closed and latched; doors are closed for security, energy loss, sound containment, and privacy. As you can see, a door closer is part of a door package and when a problem occurs, it must be analyzed and the cause corrected and not just covered up.

Loksafe Services & Door Hardware, Inc. is the most certified locksmith in the state of Louisiana. We have 3 CRL's on staff and 1 CML on staff. We have been providing the Shreveport-Bossier area top-notch security for the last 17 years. Jim Queen, our founder and CML, was appointed by the Governor of Louisiana (Bobby Jindal) to the Life Safety & Property Advisory Board.


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Facts About Door Hinges

Everywhere you see a door, you will find a hinge. It's basic concept has been borrowed from the joints found in the knees and elbows of the body. The hinge is a kind of bearing typically connecting the two panels of a door, so as to allow a limited angle of rotation allowing for opening and closing of the door.

Hinges were found in Europe, Asia and Africa in ancient times. Metal was a rarely found commodity and signified status. In ancient times they served more as status value and hence were large and chunky, mostly made of bronze. They were found on gates protecting scared structures and other places of state importance. The larger the hinge, it showed the king to be wealthier and more powerful. They have since evolved into smaller and more delicate forms.

It is an intrinsic part of a door. They are now found in different materials, sizes and rigidity of rotating angles. A typical door ordinarily has three placed at equal distances from each other. They are also placed on windows.

They are classified on the basis of their purpose. 

Here are a few types -

The butt hinge is the most commonly found household hinge and fits into all cabinets and doors. They are generally very sturdy. It is also the easiest hinge to be replaced by a single person without the help of any technician. However it is important to make sure the existing hinge and the new hinge are of the exact same measure and type.

Flush hinges are found on cupboards and are lightweight. They are otherwise exactly like the butt hinge. The continuous hinge is called the piano hinge because it was first used to secure the lid of pianos. It is used now on objects that require extended support. The concealed hinge is used in cupboards where the hinges are not wanted to be visible.

Pivot hinges are used in gates. The pivot ones spin form the top and bottom of the door. They are generally large and chunky and are ideal for heavier exterior doors.
They differ from one another in their configuration as well. They are found in the plain or standard type, the reverse assembly, the swaging, the one leaf half swag, the one leaf full swag type, multi leaf, unequal leaf, multi barrel and the foaming hinge. Multi barrel hinges are made to order due to the variations in barrels and leaves available.

They can be purchased in plastic, aluminium, stainless steel or brass. The hinges can be painted to compliment the décor and add to the beauty. They can be found in pretty shapes and custom made to order as and when desired. Hinges can be selected out of catalogues or found in hardware stores in all major markets.


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5 Tips To Choose The Best Door Hardware

Door Hardware or in other words door furniture refers to items attached to the door to beautify its appearance and boost its functionality. Door hardware includes door handles, hinges, locks, fasteners and other accessories like door closers and openers, door knockers, door stops, peepholes, fingerplates etc. 

Depending upon the type of door you will be installing and its location, you would have to decide which aspect would you want to give more preference, safety or the style of your home. 

Here are a few tips to help you out with your selection

Security
You would want to ensure the safety of your family at all times. Locks are a very important part of your hardware. Deadbolt locks are most commonly preferred. It is advisable to opt for simple locks instead of high end complicated ones, as they are not reliable and require lots of maintenance. 

Weak hinges are common places where intruders and burglars tend to attack. Exterior doors of your house should open inward as in this case the hinge pins would be safe inside the house. Stainless steel and brass hinges are mostly used because of their durability. Screws used to secure locks and hinges should be long enough to hold against an intruder. Peepholes and security chains are also very important. 

Make sure peepholes are one way so that the person standing outside your door cannot see when you come to take a look.

Attachments and accessories
Door attachments like door knockers, address plates, towel hangers etc. add to the functionality of your home. 

Door stops are very useful as they prevent open doors from swinging into a wall or furniture and causing damage. 

Door openers keep open doors from closing automatically. Knobs and handles made of wood, porcelain, brass, cast iron and glass can be used for your cabinets.

Interior Hardware
Door pulls could be used instead of door locks. These pulls can be used on kitchen doors to allow hands-free operation. 

Bathrooms and bedrooms could use privacy locks which have no keys, but can be locked on the inside by a push button on the door knob.

Keep in mind the décor of your home.

You can choose doorknobs, handles and levers which are available in different styles and designs to suit the interior décor of your home. There are also a variety of colors like gold and silver and finishes of bronze, nickel, brass and chrome you can opt for.

Budget
Always keep the budget in mind. Sit and chalk out how many doors you would like to have in your home and how you would like to accessorize them accordingly. Once you have drawn a figure, it will be easy for you to avoid expensive brands and pick one that matches up your budget.

You should do proper research before you pick your door hardware so that you get the right product that fits your requirement. Choosing the right hardware for your door will not only add style and accentuate the décor of your home, but also provide lasting security and peace of mind.

There are a variety of door hardware products that are now available in hardware supply stores to suit your demands. To find out more details visit Architectural Design Hardware.


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Making Exterior Wood Doors Uniquely Yours

Ironically, one thing we all have in common is the desire to be different, though - as the late night crowd at the Laundromat proves - some are more different than others. A better way to stand out is through the creative use of exterior wood doors. And since your home should be an extension of who you are, it's a logical place to start making your mark.
Of course, finding distinctive exterior wood doors is one thing. If you really want to underline your uniqueness, don't stop there. Try taking a big picture approach to your home's façade that considers trim, landscaping and walkways. By looking at how these elements can work together with your exterior wood doors, you'll be well on the way to setting yourself apart.

Back to the Stone Age

To achieve a classic look for your home's exterior, it's hard to beat brick. But even the best design ingredient can backfire if used to excess. One way of avoiding that is with an attractive stone-framed entry around exterior wood doors. It makes for a compelling contrast that can be further enhanced by framing the entrance with gas lanterns and tastefully chosen planters. Of course, this is just one of many options. When it comes to ideas for balancing brick, nothing is set in stone.



The Lowdown on Highlights
In addition to using contrast for variety, it's also a great way to make elegant exterior wood doors really stand out. For example, if the surrounding color scheme is brown and white, add some white trim around the door as well. It will highlight the handsome wood finish while tying in nicely with the rest of the exterior.

Making "Out of Sight" Top of Mind
When it comes to separating yourself from the crowd, some people take it literally. If you place a premium on privacy, you can use strategic landscaping to shield exterior wood doors from passers-by. Large, dense shrubs and lush plants can add visual interest to your yard while acting as a buffer between your entryway and the street beyond.

And instead of a direct path from the sidewalk to your door, fashion a curling walkway that twists around colourful plant beds on a circuitous route to the entrance. A straight line may be the shortest distance between two points, but a curved one is much more interesting.

A Welcoming Walkway
At the other end of the scale, more extroverted homeowners prefer to live in a flaunted house. Rather than employing the front yard as a shield, they use it like a spotlight.
By having shrubs that are lower in stature and utilizing a wider walkway, they draw traffic towards the entrance rather than driving it away.
To top it off, you could opt for exterior wood doors painted black and set against a lighter exterior to really capture attention.

Don't Torch the Porch

At first glance, a front porch is the crowning touch for anyone who loves to while away those summer evenings with a comfy chair and a good book. But that same feature can render exterior wood doors the equivalent of a secondary character that's killed off in the first chapter: Interesting but quickly forgotten.

In order to avoid such a fate, draw the focus back where it belongs with ornate planters full of greenery and charming paper lanterns in colors that match the façade. Then curl up with that book and reap the rewards of this novel approach.
Life's too short to blend in with your peers, so why bother? Dare to be different by breaking down the options for your entry way and finding one that works for you. And if your washer breaks down late one night and you're tempted to use the Laundromat?
Just buy new clothes.

Make a statement with distinctive exterior wood doors.


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What to Think About When Looking at Getting External Doors

Doors are something that every residential or commercial building will need, whether they are big ones or small ones, every building will need one in order to provide access in or out to everyone that lives or works there.

One thing that the majority of people look for, especially for doors for their home, is the one with the most style. This is especially true when looking at the external doors which are the main access point to the house. When it comes to these, security should be the main point of thinking when looking for one.


Being at either the front or the back of the house means these doors should be very sturdy and solid, mainly so they can provide protection against would be intruders trying to gain unlawful access. The material used should be what makes you decide which one to go for.
Another reason for this is that the main external doors will be put up against all weathers such as rain, snow and other weather conditions. This means they will have to be treated so they will be able to stand up against all of these without having to be replaced often.

However, despite being able to last for a long time it is generally seen that they need to be replaced at more regular intervals than internal doors. A separate reason for this is that homeowners may want a newer door to look nicer as a way of showing off to their neighbours and people that go by.

When looking at these types of door you will want to look around at all the different types and styles and speak to various companies to see what they can offer you. Instead of going on just looks alone, you must look at the material used and if it has been treated with anything so you can decide if it can stand up to all weather conditions.

Many companies that you look at offer a wide range of contemporary designs for you to choose from as well as offering you the chance to have one made the size and design of your choosing. This could include glass paned doors or you could mix and match various aspects of different doors.

This is appealing to a lot of people as they may want to have a front door which is different to ones they have seen and is unique. By speaking to the company you choose, they will be able to tell you if they can cater to you needs and how much it is going to cost.
It is also important to speak to your chosen company about which door to go for if you are not sure. They will be able to recommend the best ones based on the material and will be able to say whether they stock one in both your desired design and material or whether it will need to be made.

You will need to get advice from a specialised company to ensure that it is the best possible and you know they are taking all facts into consideration. This may include suggesting the right door based on requirements such as budget or the style that already exists on the front of your house.

They will also be able to advise you what door to go for and if any alterations need to be made to the front or back of your house if any special circumstances need to be taken into consideration. One of which may be that you do not want small children to be able to open the door.

Doors are something that every building is going to have. Some of them are more decorative than others. Whatever a door looks like, it needs to be functional. The sizes of the doors and where they will be used will have a big impact in the decisions that their customers make.

Source:

How to Fit an Interior Door Handle

Easy as......try this

Hang an interior door

Have you ever hung a door?
Here's how.....go for it

Maintenance introduction

We provide a wide range of repairs and maintenance services, including 1st & 2nd fix carpentry services, insurance claims, emergency lock ups, demolition work, painting, factory, office & commercial building refurbishments, repairs & maintenance.