Showing posts with label adhesive. Show all posts
Showing posts with label adhesive. Show all posts

Sunday, 19 April 2015

Bridle Joint

Bridle joints are very similar to the mortise and tenon joint but the difference is in the size of the mortise and tenon. Because these joints still have a mortise and tenon they are still very strong and fairly attractive.


The difference in the bridle joints mortise and tenon is in the length of the tenon and the depth of the mortise. The tenon on this joint is as long as the depth of the timber it is being inserted into and the mortise is cut the whole depth of the timber.

This allows the two pieces to lock tightly and you can also see the end grain of the tenon unlike on the mortise and tenon joint which makes it a little less attractive.

Because of this woodwork joints increased interlocking area more adhesives can be applied which creates a joint that may be marginally stronger than a regular mortise and tenon joint although it isn't quite as aesthetically pleasing because the end grain of the tenon can be seen.

Step 1: Start by marking out the tenon by drawing a line around the entire piece of wood to create the tenon length. The length of the tenon will be the same depth as the width of your other piece of timber which has the mortise.

You must now mark your tenon width which should be around 1/3rd the thickness of the timber. Check to see if the tenon matches the closest size chisel or mortising drill bit and if it doesn’t modify the lines to match the chisel or mortising drill bit.

Step 2: Now you cut the tenon and there are two methods of doing this the first being with a tenon saw. Put the piece of timber in a vice on a slight angle to create a neat and straight cut and then carefully cut along the lines.

Next put the timber back upright in the vice and mark 5 millimetres in from each end although it can be slightly more with larger tenons.

Now cut straight down where you marked to create small cut outs on both sides of the tenon, the reason you do this is to create a neat and flush joint but it also hides any gaps you may have from your mortises if they are cut slightly to wide.

The second method of cutting tenons is with a band saw and all you have to do is cut along the lines like you do with the saw.

This method is usually better because the band saw has a guide rail making the cuts quicker and more accurate. Remember to cut the tenon shoulders before cutting the rest of your tenon.

Step 3: For this step you need to mark out the mortise and decide where you want to position the joint.

Next you can use your recently cut tenon as a guide for the width of your mortise and you do this by resting it across the timber that will have the mortise and drawing lines along the two edges of the tenon.

After you have the width sorted you must put two more lines in between the ones you have already drawn to create the thickness of your mortise.

The thickness will be the same as the tenons thickness and you can use it again as a template if you need to but remember to measure the space on each side of the mortise to ensure it is centre.

Step 4: Now cut the mortise and once again there are two methods the first involves a mallet and chisel. If you use the first method you need to put some timber in a vice to rest your timber against and then you clamp the two bits of timber together to hold them steady.

Now you get your chisel and hammer it straight into the wood with the mallet. Apply some pressure away from the chisel bevel and repeat this on the other side of the mortise to create a V shape.

Work from the centre to the outside of the mortise and be patient meaning do not remove too much timber at once but also remember to cut the mortise the entire depth of the wood to house the tenon.

The second method of cutting a mortise involves the mortising machine and what you must do is set the width and depth before you use it. Once they are set simply drill into your timber bit by bit to remove the excess wood.

This method is also the faster more accurate one but remember not to drill too much at once and make sure the gap in the drill bit is facing the empty space of the mortise so the excess timber can escape when it is removed.

Step 5: After you have completed the mortise and tenon check to see if they interlock neatly. If your tenon won’t fit you can shave a minimal amount of timber off with the band saw but do it to both sides.

Step 6: Once you are happy with the joint and it fits flush and neat you can now bond it together with clamps and an adhesive.

Always do a dry clamp first to ensure everything fits and always keep checking for squareness while clamping plus remove the excess glue or you will have glue spots which are hard to remove later.

Tip: Remember that on a bridle joint you will be able to see the end of the tenon because your mortise is cut all the way through the timber. The back of the mortise may need some sanding if your tenon is slightly long but remember it is better slightly longer than shorter.


Friday, 30 January 2015

How to install cornice

Plaster Cornice


It is important to understand when cutting plaster cornice about the projection and depth of the cornice.

1. Projection is the distance between the wall and the outside edge of the cornice on the ceiling wall.
2. Depth is the distance between the ceiling and underside edge of the cornice on the wall.







Measuring, Cutting and Fixing Cornice


1. On the ceiling, draw a chalk line a distance from the wall equal to the top measurement of the cornice. This is the projection.


2. On the wall, mark a chalk line equal to the bottom measurement of the cornice. This is the depth. 


3. Measure the lengths of the chalk line around the room to enable the correct lengths needed for the job. 


4. Along the chalk line marked on the wall, fix a temporary nail at approximately one metre intervals,to enable the cornice to sit on, whilst the adhesive sets. These nails will be removed once the cornice has properly adhered to the ceiling and wall surfaces. 


5. Cut the corner angles and if necessary place the cornice in a large mitre box and cut. When cutting cornice always refer to the projection and depth. Cornice to be cut face up with the projection equaling a 45 degree angle. The cornice should always be cut at their projection and depth measurements. 


6. Once the cornice has been cut to the desired lengths and mitre cut, you are now ready to fix. 


7. Cornice adhesive can now be applied to the top and bottom edges of the cornice with a 10mm bleed of adhesive along the full length. 


8. Place the cornice on top of the nails and forcefully press the top to the ceiling so as to maintain pressure along the edge. 


9. See that the next length is placed up to the first and carefully push into place using the adhesive with care to form the joint. 


10. When the adhesive starts to grip, proceed to scrape off any excess with a broad knife and brush or sponge off to a clean finish. 


Remarks

Paint, wall paper and other textures should be removed with a stripper or scraper. To apply moulds to materials of uneven surfaces, soften the moulds with dampening to improve their pliability. On very difficult surfaces, hold in place by screwing to the wall.

Cutting Guide


Large Box - Place your cornice against the two back guides (4), position cornice with the base of the box as the ceiling and the back guides as the wall. Hold cornice in this position using wedges placed in the appropriate slots (2). Place the saw blade against the faces of the 45 degree angle guides (1), start to cut carefully and the angle is automatic with the guide. 


1. Cutting guides V-shaped blocks with a cutting angle of 45 degree giving the cutting mitre. 


2. Movable wedges. They are designed to hold the cornice while cutting. They slide into the appropriate slot to the dimension of the cornice. One can return to these wedges for further cuts on other lengths. 


3. Slot positions. The intervals are calculated for different cornice sizes. 


4. Back guides. Either side preference blocks angled at 45 degrees as a guide across the base to cut the mitre. 


5. Base bottom plate. Thickness 25mm. 



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